I only put tape on the bottom and sides of the lug. Not the front or back. I tighten the screws enough to know I am touching the mounting pad(are where a pillar would be) or the pillars and no more.Great Video. Couple questions. Do you put the electrical tape only on the bottom of the recoil lug? Piece that you pulled looked bigger than that. Also how tight do you get the action screws? I know you don’t want them torqued but do you want them fairly tight, just snug or ?
Yes I check bbl deflection, no my guns don’t sit in the safe. It’s a great way to eliminate one variable of accuracy. I definitely wasn’t bagging on your method, it seems to work well for you. There was nothing mentioned in your video on how you ensure a stress free job so I thought I’d ask what your method was. You can most definitely get away with some deflection in a stock and have it shoot good but to get the most accuracy and repeatability out of your rifle, why not take the time to make sure you’re bedding job is as good as possible? You’re already there doing the work so it makes absolutely no sense to not check it prior to bedding and after in my opinion. I’ve had plenty of stocks that came w factory installed pillars that were not set correctly and required tweaking to get the action sitting on them stress free. I’ve not checked them before and checked after and ended up tearing out a bedding job and rebedding. It’s not fun.Sounds like that’s your way. Great! So you get your rifle bedded, check barrel deflection, and then it sits in the gun safe?
I try to avoid aluminum bedding blocks other than Gunwerks but I did not bed my Magnus with the Terminus action and won’t bed a Gunwerks action sitting in their stocks.Great video. Do you use this same process for stocks that have an aluminum bedding block?
I've heard it both ways, typically I've heard people say go shoot it. If it shoots fine, leave it. Or maybe just bed the recoil lug. I believe Gunwerks still recommends bedding of their stocks where McMillan says they don't see the need. I don't have a McMillan (yet) but I believe they don't have a bedding block. But the Clymr that I have has an aluminum bedding block. So I'm just curious how you, and everyone, make the decision on which stocks to actually bed.
I super glue the lug to the action with no release agent anywhere on the lug, then bed as normal. The lug will stay in the stock when done. Some of the good aftermarket stocks have the lug in the stock already.Hey Ryan. I’m bedding a tikka action into a stock. It has that funky recoil lug. Would you just bed the lUgh into the stock permanently or not?
I think it will be fine but I use thisThank you. One last question before I dive in. Will Johnson’s wax work for a release agent?
When I do pillars I do it in 2 steps as well.Have a few Manners on their way. What's everyone's preference on when you have to bed the pillars as well? I believe some people do it all in one shot or in two phases. In the past I have done it in two steps. Get the pillars epoxied in, then actually bed the action to the stock. I've done maybe a dozen bedding jobs, it still makes me nervous and have always just felt a little more comfortable with the two phases.