My New V3 Mounting System

Diverjeff

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I can't take credit for the idea as I saw pictures of it on another site,but I took a guess on the ring heights,etc. and after tweaking components the system works great.Takes only seconds to move the bayonet from the 338LM MPR to the 300WM BA Tactical and accurately picks up velocities.$30 each for 2 sets of cheap 1" QD rings,$30 for a 1" O.D. carbon fiber tube,and a few $ for a pic rail.

 

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DEW

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Looks good. Nice simple mounting system. What height rings did you loose?
 
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Diverjeff

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The elcheapo rings I used only came in 3 heights(low,med.,and high)so I ordered a pr. of each(didn't need the med. as both rifles used a low and a high).Just had to drill an extra hole in the pic rail and screw it to the bayonet(4-40x3/4" machine screws).For everything shown I'm into it for about $100 for both rifles(maybe a little more with shipping,sales tax,etc.)and I like how it literally takes seconds to change between rifles.Didn't pick up the first shot with the 338 as the bayonet was about a 1/4" too low but after adjusting the sensitivity a bit it didn't miss a shot.
 

DEW

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Great info Jeff do you happen to have a link to the materials you used?
 

Diverjeff

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Ladd

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I can't take credit for the idea as I saw pictures of it on another site,but I took a guess on the ring heights,etc. and after tweaking components the system works great.Takes only seconds to move the bayonet from the 338LM MPR to the 300WM BA Tactical and accurately picks up velocities.$30 each for 2 sets of cheap 1" QD rings,$30 for a 1" O.D. carbon fiber tube,and a few $ for a pic rail.
Nicely done. I bet it works pretty well.
 

Diverjeff

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Morning Ladd,

I'm pretty pleased with the way they came out.Could be refined a little more with different ring heights(could use a slightly taller front ring on the 300WM to widen the bayonet's 1/8" gap and a slightly shorter front ring on the MPR to close up some of the 1/2" gap)since the bayonet when mounted on the MPR has about a 1/2" gap(sensitivity setting fixed it)while on the BA Tactical only showing about an 1/8" gap.The front pic rail mounted on the stock -to bore spacing determines best actual ring heights to use.I just winged it using the cheap rings that only came in 3 heights so I wouldn't be out much if I couldn't get the setup to work,luckily for me it did.These are the cheap rings I used,wouldn't depend on them to mount a scope but for the light weight of the rings,CF tube,and the bayonet they seem to work.

Only took me an hour of cussing this time to get pictures posted.:LOL:
 
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OSOK - Crash

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I need to remember this thread. I plan on making something like this here soon. I’ve decided to go with the V3 too. Looks like a slick set up. Thank you for posting this.
 

Diverjeff

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Glad I could finally contribute something worthwhile to the site brother.:D
 

OSOK - Crash

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Diverjeff

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Not sure which sets came through Crash,but I got pairs in low,med.,and high from the rings listed above.Didn't have to use the med. height.

Let me know if these came through bro.
 
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Diverjeff

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Should work,assuming the dimensions on the 338LM and the 6.5 Creed MPR's chassis,etc. are pretty much the same.I used a low on my MPR forend pic rail and a high on the bayonet pic rail.May take a little tweaking on the bayonet mounted pic rail to get close to the recommended 1/4" bore to bayonet clearance.I ended up with approx. 1/2" clearance and had to adjust the sensitivity just a little for it to pick up the shots. (y)
 

OSOK - Crash

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Should work,assuming the dimensions on the 338LM and the 6.5 Creed MPR's chassis,etc. are pretty much the same.I used a low on my MPR forend pic rail and a high on the bayonet pic rail.May take a little tweaking on the bayonet mounted pic rail to get close to the recommended 1/4" bore to bayonet clearance.I ended up with approx. 1/2" clearance and had to adjust the sensitivity just a little for it to pick up the shots. (y)
Ah ok. So low on rifle end, and high in MS end. Thanks for the tip!
 

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Ok. Question for those that have built one of these. Did you need to bend the rail to get the MS to be more parallel with the barrel?
 

OSOK - Crash

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Ok. Question for those that have built one of these. Did you need to bend the rail to get the MS to be more parallel with the barrel?
DEW, I have not had to do that. I had to get some longer screws for mine. I had to use one of the Magneto Speed spacers, and therefore had to order longer screws. They should be here tomorrow.

I think I know what you are seeing, but it had not bothered me yet, as I didn't have everything super tight yet. Can you see the MS3 when you look down the tube?
 

Diverjeff

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I had to try different spacers and tweak my bayonet mounted rail just a bit to level it out(probably no more than a few degrees).If you end up with a little more space than the recommended 1/4"(I think)below bore height you can add a bit more sensitivity to pick up the shots.
 

Diverjeff

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You should be good Dew,as long as it's close to being parallel and 1/4" below bore height(if more than a 1/4" you may have to adjust the sensitivity a bit).Keep an eye on the rings being snug on the pic rails from time to time,my 338's recoil eventually caused my rear ring to develop a little slop on the rail after about 15 shots and had to snug it back up once.
 

Diverjeff

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Lookin' good Dew,let me know how it works out. (y)
 
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DEW

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Jeff took it out this am. It worked perfect. I was a bit more than the recommended distance from the bore but it picked up every shot. Was very solid and I had no problems with the mount loosening. I got all the components off Amazon and it was about $75. Thanks for sharing this. 54BDD593-BA34-4683-BE51-B42C1CD2759B.jpg
 
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DEW

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@Broz. Jeff I remember you posting something awhile back about a V3 mount. This could be the ticket. You may need a few to accommodate for so many rifles, but this thing seems solid.
 

Diverjeff

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Jeff took it out this am. It worked perfect. I was a bit more than the recommended distance from the bore but it picked up every shot. Was very solid and I had no problems with the mount loosening. I got all the components off Amazon and it was about $75. Thanks for sharing this. View attachment 12369
More than welcome brotherhood,glad it's working out!It does make for a pretty good looking/functional/quick change V3 mounting system.For use on different conventionally stocked rifles I'd guess switching it over may only take adding(or subtracting)a spacer or two or a different ring height to get the correct bayonet to bore spacing(and could leave the tube long and just slide the bayonet back and forth for different barrel lengths,etc.).I like the clean look of the setup,and not like it was made from an erector set. :D
 

DEW

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I was thinking of leaving the tube long but then I wouldn’t be able to run my bipod. Using a long rail I can get about 2 more inches in length. Like you said might need to change ring height but that’s not a big deal.
 

DEW

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Here it is all set up and ready to go
 

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Diverjeff

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I was thinking of leaving the tube long but then I wouldn’t be able to run my bipod. Using a long rail I can get about 2 more inches in length. Like you said might need to change ring height but that’s not a big deal.
You're right,I don't know what I was thinking,maybe it was some of those other units that had the rod hanging off of the side.Did you try it with the low ring in the rear and the tall ring in the front?On my CA BA Tactical it allowed the tube to run pretty much parallel with the barrel(which I haven't tried yet,have had the rifle for over a year and only have 10 rounds through it).for some reason I must like getting beat up with the 338LM. :LOL:
 

DEW

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Nope haven’t tried it that way. The way I’m set up I don’t need any shims to make it work. I did have to bend the rail a bit to get it parallel.
 

OSOK - Crash

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Finished mine up today too. I had to buy different rings. Got em off Amazon for cheap, so no big deal. Only thing I had to do was use one wrap of electorical tape to make better all around contact with the rings. They are cheap rings though, so it's expected IMO.

My setup was spot on with the ¼ inch verification square that comes with the MS3. I did have to use the ⅛ inch spacer though.

Unlike @DEW, I only used about 6 ⁵/16 of my carbon tube. So I have some left over for other rifles? 😇

@DEW, I did NOT have to bend my rail at all. Obviously, different rings / pic rails may effect this. But either way, the results are still the same.

Here is the rings I bought (sizes are the "P" numbers. Larger number, higher rise). Pic below.

Compress_20220923_181017_7856.jpg
 

OSOK - Crash

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@DEW, I noticed you left the slots on the bottom of your rail. I had to grind mine off, so I could drill and chamfer another hole for my second screw for the MS3.
 

DEW

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I didnt have to do any grinding on the rail. And those are the same rings that I got. i ran the small ring on my rifle side. I would need a medium on the rifle side and a high on the MS end to make it work. If I would have done that I may not of had to bend my rail. Ohh well. Live and learn. Still works great tho.
 

Diverjeff

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If I remember right I filed the edges of my pic rail to fit down into the bayonet "V" shape a bit.As long as they work good that's all that matters. (y)
 

Diverjeff

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Now I'm jealous,your's looks better on your MPR with your CF barrel(24"?)than mine with the 27" bare steel!Nice job Crash!(y)
 

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