Christensen Arms Mesa Long Range muzzle brake: removable?

Nevada Smith

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The catalog and webpage says, yes, it does.

Mesa Long Range Rifle | The Ideal Long-Range Precision Rifle

If it has, me and my buddies can't see the boundary line between the barrel and the brake, presumably because their machining tolerances are so small that it is in fact seamless -- plus the Cerakote finish could hide what would otherwise be visible.

If it's removable, what is the recommended way to remove it for the first time such that it minimizes or eliminates any damage to the finish (such as chipping the Cerakote)?

 

brotherbear67

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I use a small diameter metal dowel that fits snugly in the ports, insert across wise, tap with rubber mallet counter clockwise (lefty loosey) and back it off. Probably will want barrel in a vice to do this. If you don
 

Nevada Smith

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I use a small diameter metal dowel that fits snugly in the ports, insert across wise, tap with rubber mallet counter clockwise (lefty loosey) and back it off. Probably will want barrel in a vice to do this. If you don

When removing it for the first time, how will breaking the "seamless seam" under the Cerakote finish be affected?
 

RobertJTaylor

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Sorry to bring up an old thread. Just purchased this same rifle. What did you end up doing to get the break off. I call the factory they were kinda standoffish. Said that I need to score the barrel at a certain length. Put in a vice to torque it off. If I new this was such a big deal I wouldn’t have bought this rifle. Sucks they advertise it as removable and it’s such a pain.
 

Broz

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No problem bringing up old threads, that is exactly what they are here for.

As for breaking it loose, the round well fitting dowel will work fine. Use a large as possible dowel that fits radius well.

With any braked cerokoted barrel barrel there will always be a risk of an uneven brake of the paint at the parting line. Factory produced or full custom if the cerokote was applied with brake installed for a perfectly hidden parting line.

I have seen many break clean at the parting line, but there will always be risk otherwise.

No need for sour grapes friend. If you feel you really need to take it off go for it. Your issue is not specific to only this rifle and in a worst case scenario cerokote can be touched up.
 

RobertJTaylor

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Great! Thanks for the quick reply. Main reason to remove it is to mount my omega. Just starting to get into long range shooting. Been shooting 224 out of an ar platform about 6 months. Really enjoying it. Bought this rifle to fuel the addiction.
 

Kennethrs72

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No problem bringing up old threads, that is exactly what they are here for.

As for breaking it loose, the round well fitting dowel will work fine. Use a large as possible dowel that fits radius well.

With any braked cerokoted barrel barrel there will always be a risk of an uneven brake of the paint at the parting line. Factory produced or full custom if the cerokote was applied with brake installed for a perfectly hidden parting line.

I have seen many break clean at the parting line, but there will always be risk otherwise.

No need for sour grapes friend. If you feel you really need to take it off go for it. Your issue is not specific to only this rifle and in a worst case scenario cerokote can be touched up.
If leaving the brake on would be the best in regards to an uneven separation, what would be the best cleaning method. Specifically to get the crown cleaned? Just curious what guys are doing with a non removable brake? Seems like a little discoloration might be better than chipped or flaked cerakote.
 

Nevada Smith

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Well, the brake won't budge!

And despite my best efforts all I've succeeded in doing is:

a) marring the finish on the barrel/brake by scribing a line at 2.15" (the length of the brake according to CA)

b) mangling the edges of the ports thru which I put a steel rod to twist off the brake; except the brake would not budge

I even tried to remove it with two opposing strap wrenches (one on the brake, and one on the barrel); no joy.

Then I tried a wrench across the flats of the brake; no joy. And more marring to the finish despite my effort to prevent this.

(a) and (b) are what happens when the appearance of a "seamless" brake is given priority over the functionality of being able to take it off and put it on with one's hand.

Very frustrating, and disappointing.
 
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Ladd

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Well, all I've succeeded in doing is:

a) marring the finish on the barrel/brake by scoring a line at 2.15" (the length of the brake according to CA)

b) mangling the edges of the ports thru which I put a steel rod to twist off the brake

I even tried two strap wrenches (one on the brake, one on the barrel); no joy.

Then a wrench across the flats of the brake; no joy. And more marring to the finish despite my effort to prevent this.

(a) and (b) are what happens when the appearance of a "seamless" brake is given priority over the functionality of being able to take it off and put it on with one's hand.

Very frustrating, and disappointing.

Dang, ouch. I don’t know much about the Mesa but the gunsmith installed the sideport brake on one of my Christensen Arms Ridgelines so tight I can’t get it off. I haven’t tried as hard as you just to clean the crown.

You may need to use something like a barrel vise and barrel wrench if you need it off that bad. Even though you have the brake and/or barrel marred you can have a gunsmith or shop smooth it out and cerakote the barrel and action good as new. I had one done once, changed the color for a new look to boot.

Sorry to hear about the troubles. Nice thing it’s fixable. And cerakoted separately and hand tightened for easy on/off removal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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J300UM

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I use an old brass float rod from my toilet when I replaced the guts in it years ago. It's strong enough to take the force of breaking loose a brake for the first time but soft enough that it doesn't hurt the finish. Sounds kinda shitty but it works... see what I did there? ;)
 

Nevada Smith

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I put the muzzle brake in Kroil for some hours but that didn't have any affect.

Talking about this with a friend, he posited a thread locker may have been applied at the factory, and to warm the threads, which I did; still no joy.

Lacking a barrel vise--and not wanting to have to buy one in order to be able to remove a so-called "removeable" brake--I took the rifle to my LGS to have them remove it. (Interestingly, business is still so brisk that they can't get to it until early next week.)
 
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Broz

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I just removed the factory Brake from a MESA Long Range. I used an exacto knife to scribe the finish at the 2.150" line from the muzzle end of the brake. I put the action in a vice using leather to protect the finish. Then I used a small torch and applied heat slowly to the brake above the threads. I gave it time to heat soak. The using an adjustable wrench and some muscle I broke the brake loose and un-threaded it. The parting line is clean and all went perfect. This is a 300 Win Mag so the thread is the standard 5/8" x 24 TPI
 

digger

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I usually use a dab of never sInez on the threads when I put one on
 

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