300 PRC "Click" Issue 2.0

Ladd

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I talked to an LRO member recently that has been getting the "click" in their 300 PRC rifle using 4x fired brass. I have it myself in 1x brass. I know what you are thinking. Common issue, see "that" thread. But, this is after the JGS AW2 finish reamer has been used on the chamber and finishing the job with 800 grit wet sandpaper.

Mine gets the click when I push the load with the 215 gr Berger over 2900 fps. Both chambers have the +P so it should be way far away from pressure. I know because I have taken mine up to the mid 3000s but I kept it lower for minimal click. The accuracy has been great so I have not wanted more velocity but it would be nice to have less or no "click" at all. I honestly do not see anything on the case head with respect to ejector marks, swipes, etc. I looked through a magnifying glass too...nothing.

We have identical barrels (great barrels btw) and identical Redding body dies (typically great). I decided to order a new die, a Micron sizing die from BulletCentral.com. The die is not in my possession yet but it will be soon and I'm thinking it will take care of this. That is my hope anyway.

Has anyone heard of this or seen it for themselves?

 
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DerekS

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Seems like a cartridge/chamber design flaw with the PRC case family. I've contemplated moving to PRC cases at some point, but all this clicking business I'm not sure I want to now.

I do not have any experience with Bullet Central dies. Good luck 🤞.
 

FURMAN

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Seems like a cartridge/chamber design flaw with the PRC case family. I've contemplated moving to PRC cases at some point, but all this clicking business I'm not sure I want to now.

I do not have any experience with Bullet Central dies. Good luck 🤞.
This is the case with SAAMI chambers. Ladd's is not SAAMI.
 

FURMAN

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I talked to an LRO member recently that has been getting the "click" in their 300 PRC rifle using 4x fired brass. I have it myself in 1x brass. I know what you are thinking. Common issue, see "that" thread. But, this is after the JGS AW2 finish reamer has been used on the chamber and finishing the job with 800 grit wet sandpaper.

Mine gets the click when I push the load with the 215 gr Berger over 2900 fps. Both chambers have the +P so it should be way far away from pressure. I know because I have taken mine up to the mid 3000s but I kept it lower for minimal click. The accuracy has been great so I have not wanted more velocity but it would be nice to have less or no "click" at all. I honestly do not see anything on the case head with respect to ejector marks, swipes, etc. I looked through a magnifying glass too...nothing.

We have identical barrels (great barrels btw) and identical Redding body dies (typically great). I decided to order a new die, a Micron sizing die from BulletCentral.com. The die is not in my possession yet but it will be soon and I'm thinking it will take care of this. That is my hope anyway.

Has anyone heard of this or seen it for themselves?
If the brass was clicking prior to running the AW reamer into the chamber it may have ruined the brass. The Micron dies are much better dies than anything I have tried however once you get bolt click with the PRCs I have not been able to fix the issue with smaller dies. Did your chambers start as AW chambers or did they start as SAAMI?
 

Ladd

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If the brass was clicking prior to running the AW reamer into the chamber it may have ruined the brass. The Micron dies are much better dies than anything I have tried however once you get bolt click with the PRCs I have not been able to fix the issue with smaller dies. Did your chambers start as AW chambers or did they start as SAAMI?
My barrel started as an AW2 chamber. I used virgin Lapua brass going through 200 rounds with a mild load to start the brass moving and used 1x brass for load development. I didn't want to be in So. Africa with a barrel <150 rounds fired.
 

FURMAN

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Hmmm. I have not seen this with new brass and the fatter chamber.
 

Ladd

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Hmmm. I have not seen this with new brass and the fatter chamber.
What were you seeing in your 300 WSM in first episodes of your VLOG?
 

FURMAN

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What were you seeing in your 300 WSM in first episodes of your VLOG?
Crappy Hornady dies not sizing. I bought micron dies. With the PRC however the base size is so close to the web size you can’t get dies small enough to fix the clickers. The WSMs have plenty of room to size smaller.
 

Ladd

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Ladd, rough up the back 1/2 of the chamber. Try 360
Will do, after I shoot the last rounds tomorrow for the N568 testing I'm doing.
 

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Interesting on your finding with the clicking. I’m on my 3rd firing and so far no issues. I’m running mine around 2940 fps with 215s.
JGS done my reamer and the chamber is tight compared to sammi specs and my full length resizing die. so Far so good. ADG brass. I do anneal after each firing.
 

Ladd

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I sized three cases just now with the Micron die. Before: 0.5335” at the 0.200” line. After: 0.5295”. Compare that to my Redding body comp die I get. Before: 0.5335”. After: 0.5295”. I’m getting the same result from both dies so this is not a die issue.

I took my 300 PRC apart yesterday and honed the chamber with 400 grit wet sandpaper wrapped around a 1/4” wood dowel chucked up in my cordless drill. I will get out sometime this week and check the results.
 
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Broz

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I sized three cases just now with the Micron die. Before: 0.5335” at the 0.200” line. After: 0.5295”. Compare that to my Redding body comp die I get. Before: 0.5335”. After: 0.5295”. I’m getting the same result from both dies so this is not a die issue.

I took my 300 PRC apart yesterday and honed the chamber with 400 grit wet sandpaper wrapped around a 1/4” wood dowel chucked up in my cordless drill. I will get out sometime this week and check the results.
You're getting great sizing from both dies. Is the issue just the click on primary extraction? Or do you have to bump the bolt back too after the primary extraction?
 

Ladd

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You're getting great sizing from both dies. Is the issue just the click on primary extraction? Or do you have to bump the bolt back too after the primary extraction?
At or near the top of the bolt lift, the bolt hesitates for a moment then continues. And, I can do this with normal force and fingers. The pull back of the bolt and ejection is easy. So, its minor and yes, its just the click. I can live with it but I think I will try to get rid of it without using less powder in the loads.
 

DEW

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Not to walk on your thread Ladd but on mine I need to bump the bolt back
 

Ladd

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Not to walk on your thread Ladd but on mine I need to bump the bolt back
You should send it back to me and let me take it apart.
 

Broz

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At or near the top of the bolt lift, the bolt hesitates for a moment then continues. And, I can do this with normal force and fingers. The pull back of the bolt and ejection is easy. So, its minor and yes, its just the click. I can live with it but I think I will try to get rid of it without using less powder in the loads.
I am anxious to see it the 400 grit helps. I feel it may
 

Ladd

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I am anxious to see it the 400 grit helps. I feel it may
I hope I used it for long enough. 12-24 in/out reps. It looked like the paper was coated with fine metal powder which got all over my fingers so I hope that is a good sign.
 

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Thanks For the offer Ladd. I’d really like to try and figure this out and do some learning in the process. If I can’t then I may take you up on your offer. Waiting to see how your changes work out.
 

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I noticed mine doing it today as well. Pretty faint tho. I may polish mine to see if that helps.
 

Ladd

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I loaded up 5-rounds today with a charge to take the velocity near 3050 fps to test and they all extracted and ejected great. No pressure signs.
 

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I loaded up 5-rounds today with a charge to take the velocity near 3050 fps to test and they all extracted and ejected great. No pressure signs.
Knowing that you would like to see a bit more speed in this new setup of yours but the click and stick dictated your focus point (keeping it under 3k) do you see yourself re-exploring the higher charge range with H1000 to see if there is a higher node that can be achieved ? I would assume N568 is out since it’s seems to be reaching compression max. Personally…..I’d be real interested to see if you can get over the 3k mark and keep that accuracy.
 

Ladd

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Knowing that you would like to see a bit more speed in this new setup of yours but the click and stick dictated your focus point (keeping it under 3k) do you see yourself re-exploring the higher charge range with H1000 to see if there is a higher node that can be achieved ? I would assume N568 is out since it’s seems to be reaching compression max. Personally…..I’d be real interested to see if you can get over the 3k mark and keep that accuracy.
The loads I shot today were with N568. I will see if there is a good load with it just over 3000 fps.

I found a good spot to shoot at 1000 yards today. Hopefully the weather will cooperate and I will give it a try later in the week.
 

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gentlemen,
i am now having a very heavy clicker issue with no extraction issue, 300prc
ADG brass, Redding FL size die,
at first i thought my load had changed somehow or i had a massive carbon ring build up causing pressure issues, i have never read or heard of this problem before so... had me scratching my head that's for sure!!
at least now i know what it is and its nothing i was screwing up!
hope to remedy the situation with minimal fuss as it is one of my favorite rifles to shoot!

Had a local NZ smith do the chambering, and fitment to my Defiance action, he is a very well known and reputed guy, however unsure if he has a mod/finish reamer to re do the chamber again though? so..

so, is it possible for me to have a go at polishing the chamber with the action still attached? i would like to have a crack at it before going through the drama of asking him to re do it and hurting feelings etc if you know what i mean?
i am pretty handy with machinery and tooling etc however i don't have a barrel vice or an action tool to unscrew the action from barrel, this is something i have never had to do... might look into this in the future.

anyway, im glad i found this info as it has answered a lot of silent questions about what was going on.

cheers gents
WOPASS
 

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DEW

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I tried polishing my chamber with the action attached with no luck. Wound up getting a Vise ans action wrench.
 

WOPASS

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did some measuring of case sizes post firing last night, interesting how such a minimal difference causes such a pain of a problem.
fired case that has is not a clicker (Yet) = 0.5315'
fired case that has pretty bad clicker = 0.5320"

would that indicate that if i polished 0.001" material out of the back end of my chamber i should relieve the issue? obviously this is a big guess until i actually measure the chamber.
 

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Ladd, rough up the back 1/2 of the chamber. Try 360
Broz and Ladd,

I have the same issue with a Bartlein barrel I just had chambered. It was done with the SAMMI reamer. Could have used the JW2 so it' could be my error. Some unfired Hornady factory ammo presents a heavy bolt and click. This is mainly the Match ammo, the hunting ammo seems OK. Same even after firing which is odd. When I FL size it goes away but have not fired any loads so not sure it will stay away.

I use Lapua brass for reloading but from what I've read the brass and sizing may not resolve the issue.

Having a similar issue on a new 6.5 PRC as well.

Both have a heavy lift and click but the case can be ejected.

So finally to my questions:

Can you rough up the back half of the chamber on your ow, or should a Smith do it? If so how?
Also, do you need to remove the barrel to do this or can you do it with the action in place?
Will this situation cause any issues in accuracy or chamber pressure?

Unfortunately I don't have a shop with a lathe, etc so it would be strictly by hand (dowel, sandpaper, etc.) If this will cause possible damage or misaligned chambers I'd rather bring it to a Smith. Just not sure how aggressive this needs to be or how much metal needs to be removed?

Thank you in advance,
 

Ladd

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Broz and Ladd,

I have the same issue with a Bartlein barrel I just had chambered. It was done with the SAMMI reamer. Could have used the JW2 so it' could be my error. Some unfired Hornady factory ammo presents a heavy bolt and click. This is mainly the Match ammo, the hunting ammo seems OK. Same even after firing which is odd. When I FL size it goes away but have not fired any loads so not sure it will stay away.

I use Lapua brass for reloading but from what I've read the brass and sizing may not resolve the issue.

Having a similar issue on a new 6.5 PRC as well.

Both have a heavy lift and click but the case can be ejected.

So finally to my questions:

Can you rough up the back half of the chamber on your ow, or should a Smith do it? If so how?
Also, do you need to remove the barrel to do this or can you do it with the action in place?
Will this situation cause any issues in accuracy or chamber pressure?

Unfortunately I don't have a shop with a lathe, etc so it would be strictly by hand (dowel, sandpaper, etc.) If this will cause possible damage or misaligned chambers I'd rather bring it to a Smith. Just not sure how aggressive this needs to be or how much metal needs to be removed?

Thank you in advance,
If you haven’t seen this thread, check it out. The JGS AW2 reamer is the fix you need.
Thread 'PRC SAAMI Chamber Issue - The JGS AW2 (Alex Wheeler) Finish Reamer Fix'
https://www.longrangeonly.com/forum...jgs-aw2-alex-wheeler-finish-reamer-fix.11279/
 

Elknut

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In contact with my Smith today. He has that Reamer for both the 6.5 and 300. Likely will be my path forward.

My choice to go with the SAMMI (thought the Freebore and tight specs would be a better choice). He recommended the JGS. Only can blame myself.

Thank you
 

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My Smith will Ream both rifles for $100. Not too bad.

Thanks again
 

Elknut

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Agreed, he's always very fair with his pricing. Only issue with the 6.5 is it came with the .188" Freebore. Can't get close to the lands which is bothersome.

SAMMI really needs to do something with these spec's. I had a Fierce that would not eject. Turned it back after they tried 3 times to fix it. Friends have had Christensen's with the same issue. The Bergara I had no issues so it varies by manufacturer.

Thanks again for all the help
 

Ladd

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Agreed, he's always very fair with his pricing. Only issue with the 6.5 is it came with the .188" Freebore. Can't get close to the lands which is bothersome.

SAMMI really needs to do something with these spec's. I had a Fierce that would not eject. Turned it back after they tried 3 times to fix it. Friends have had Christensen's with the same issue. The Bergara I had no issues so it varies by manufacturer.

Thanks again for all the help
.188" freebore is a good thing but sounds like your rifle is a short action and limited with the mag box or detachable box mag. A Wyatt's Baney box is a good option for long 6.5 PRC loads in short actions with internal mag boxes. I added that to my 6.5 PRC Christensen Arms Ridgeline.

All rifles SAAMI chambered PRCs will have the "click" issue with fired brass whether it shows up in 1x, 2x, 3x, 4x or later.
 

Elknut

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Yes, it's a short action. Longest round that will fit in the Mag is about 2.995". This puts me about 80/1000" off the lands.

It's a Mack Bro's EVO action so not as easy as a 700 to retrofit. Likely a little work needed on the action itself. I've read on Wyatt's a little but will look into that particular mag.

Thanks again!

 

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