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  1. #1
    LRO Owner ~ Review Editor ~ Long Range Hunting Specialist Broz's Avatar
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    That Darn sight Oscillation what helps?

    OK, I need some help from better shooters than I. I get quite a bit of "sight Oscillation" and find myself trying to shoot whn the pin crosses the target. I have the new Option Archery "Quivilizer" (a quiver that mounts so it doubles as a stabilizer and sticks way out front) I am noticing that I shoot tighter groups when I take it off. I am assuming since most target shooters use long "stabilizers" I must be doing something wrong?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Jeff

  2. #2
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    I've had "fun" going back and forth between my relatively heavy target bow (Hoyt Prevail with ~4 ounces on the end of a 30" stabilizer, along with 8 ounces on the offset 10" back bar) and my hunting bow (Hoyt RX-1) that has an 8" stabilizer. I ended up putting a 4 ounce weight on the RX-1 to get the balance where I wanted it. You could see if it is possible to add weight to the end of the quivalizer.

    One of the considerations with the quivalizer is that has more surface area than a target stabilizer and therefore has more potential for wind deflection. Are you getting any rattles or loud vibration noises?

    -David

    I can't imagine hunting with the 30" stabilizer... Even for the Total Archery Challenge, my daughter will be replacing her long one with my 10" target back bar to keep the balance.

  3. #3
    LRO Owner ~ Review Editor ~ Long Range Hunting Specialist Broz's Avatar
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    I found I was having to apply pressure with my left thumb to keep the bow level. So I added a 4" stabilizer for weight to the left side of the bow. I also found I shot it better with the quivilizer removed. (not wind related) I took that as an indication of too heavy in front. So I moved the arrow cup back a few inches to add a small amount of rear weight and moved my draw stop in one hole to keep a little more pressure on my left hand at full draw. This should also compensate for too much front weight. I feel I gained and will keep making fine adjustments. I can only shoot so many in a session and I get fatigued. I am hoping shooting every day will help that as well. Good muscle tone surely can't hurt.

    Edit, wrong thumb, it is my left thumb on the right side of the grip.


    Thanks
    Jeff
    Last edited by Broz; 05-12-2018 at 16:00.

  4. #4
    Draw length being to long or to short and or being to tense can cause some of the oscillation problems. Bows are a fine tuned machine if a little's off it can make a big difference. I shoot my best when I am relaxed.
    The memory's of the hunt and fresh meat on the table combined with the beauty of Gods creation. Keeps many a man from being a vegetarian. --- DLG

  5. #5
    Check draw length, but main issue usually is stabilizer set up. I use a front and rear bar. 15" in the front and 10" in the back. More of a target set up but really helps at longer range.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Broz View Post
    OK, I need some help from better shooters than I. I get quite a bit of "sight Oscillation" and find myself trying to shoot whn the pin crosses the target. I have the new Option Archery "Quivilizer" (a quiver that mounts so it doubles as a stabilizer and sticks way out front) I am noticing that I shoot tighter groups when I take it off. I am assuming since most target shooters use long "stabilizers" I must be doing something wrong?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Jeff
    I don't think you can ever completely stop pin float, but I do believe there are a few places to troubleshoot to minimize it. Draw length, Draw weight, and front and rear stabilizer weight adjustments. Reducing draw weight to a comfortable level that allows you to hold at full draw long enough to get a shot off is key. If you are experiencing fatigue at any time during the shot sequence, or not able to relax, drop the poundage on your bow until you can do this.

    Once you have the draw weight under control, make sure your draw length isn't too long. Lots of people have this issue. It causes left and right issues at longer distances past 45-50 yards IMO. Shorter is better in almost every scenario.

    Stabilizer weight is going to be unique to your bow, accessories and your form. I don't remember the exact amount of ounces I ended up with, but it was basically trial and error for each bow. Add a little up front and the rear until your float calms down. swing the angled back bar around until you can level out with the bubble on your sight. Assuming you have the second and third axis leveled prior to getting your front and back bars done. If this is your first time trying this, don't be discouraged if you can't get it done in an afternoon. It normally takes me 2-4 sessions or more to get things like I want them.

    And very much like load development with rifles, you want no wind conditions when troubleshooting these issues or you will be chasing your tail.

  7. #7
    LRO Owner ~ Review Editor ~ Long Range Hunting Specialist Broz's Avatar
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    Thanks, I have worked with all these things, and I do work a little at a time as I can shoot right in the yard. I only have the draw weight at 65#, My torn rotator cuffs do at times bother me during draw, but once I am in the valley there is no issue holding it.

    Jeff

    EDIT to add: This year I will be trying other bows. I am looking for "The One"

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Broz View Post
    Thanks, I have worked with all these things, and I do work a little at a time as I can shoot right in the yard. I only have the draw weight at 65#, My torn rotator cuffs do at times bother me during draw, but once I am in the valley there is no issue holding it.

    Jeff

    EDIT to add: This year I will be trying other bows. I am looking for "The One"
    That is a great idea. Make sure you try them at your draw length and near the poundage you want to shoot. I like to shoot bows that are 60-65lbs and 32-34" ATA and preferably 6" brace height. Bows of that spec seem to work for me. I don't like short bows or the string angle. I can shoot them just fine, but not near as well at the longer ranges that I enjoy shooting to practice.

  9. #9
    LRO Owner ~ Review Editor ~ Long Range Hunting Specialist Broz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buxndiverdux View Post
    That is a great idea. Make sure you try them at your draw length and near the poundage you want to shoot. I like to shoot bows that are 60-65lbs and 32-34" ATA and preferably 6" brace height. Bows of that spec seem to work for me. I don't like short bows or the string angle. I can shoot them just fine, but not near as well at the longer ranges that I enjoy shooting to practice.
    I have owned bows from 32" to 34" with 6 and 7" brace height. Couldn't tell a lot of difference. I can shoot what I have "OK" (BowTech Realm X) but just have to work real hard at it. I may try some accessory swap outs too. Like leaving the Option archery quivelizer and go back to a conventional quiver. I may also have my sight reworked with larger filaments to accommodate my aging eyes.

  10. #10

    A lot of good points here.

    My questions would be the following,

    When you anchor is the string at the tip of your nose or past?

    Is your bow arm slightly bent or rigid?

    Are you holding the weight with your shoulder blades "pinched" , meaning you are using your back to hold the weight or not your release hand. Basically squeezing your shoulder blades together and pushing your chest out will help relax your arms.

    I always have some oscillation in my pin, though this can be exaggerated by how far your sight housing is from the riser, and if form is slightly off it will be amplified.

    Since you have rotator cup issues it sounds the near .75 pounds you have out front not to mention the moment arm is adding to your fatigue and pin movement. Ever bow will be different though.

    I feel Prime has made head way with the engineering of the riser design to help eliminate movement through design, though each user will find this differently, check out the Prime CT5 is your search this year, I just got mine and am very impressed.

    As for stabilizers I will be running this version this year and will report back my findings, if have found I only need to level my bubble when I have a quiver attached, this will help adjust fo the added fulcrum. Bee Stinger - Hunting Stabilizers


    Also when drawing the bow try and push and pull both arms using your back, this will help take tension off your rotator cuff and front delt.

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